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From India to Greenland

Arctic Sunrise: The Indian Connection

The Arctic Sunrise reaches 'the ice bridge' in the Robeson channel

The Arctic Sunrise reaches 'the ice bridge' in the Robeson channel

India seems (and is) quite far away from Greenland and the Arctic. Yet, with the world’s second population and with major cities like Mumbai (parts of which lie just a few meters above sea level), the country cannot ignore what is happening. India is now a major player in international politics. If its population and leaders start making climate change the political priority, the world will listen. Gaurav Sawant, a journalist from Aajtak and Headlines Today, is on board the Arctic Sunrise and he has been blogging his experience so far. He’s a good writer and if you have a break this afternoon, I recommend you use it to read his last blog entries on his own Arctic expedition blog.

Large chunks of ice are falling into the water… the water level in the oceans and seas is rising and eating into the land from New York to Sydney and from Mumbai to the Sundarbans on India’s east coast.

So what is happening and will happen in the years to come is that the sea will eat more and more into the land. And scientists say land under cultivation and land we live on will be devoured by the sea resulting in large scale migration of people from these areas to safer areas – from Bangladesh to India – and this will led to violence and tension.

Read Gaurav Sawant’s blog from the Arctic:

I am hungry. The pitch and the roll of the ship on the high seas take a toll on your energy. I climb down the narrow staircase towards the galley (kitchen). I smell spices in the air. Tandoori chicken, rajma, rice and daal. 9,000 kilometres from home. Indian food in the Arctic. Yes!

Chef Babu Pillai from Kerala, cooks for people from almost 15 countries on board

Chef Babu Pillai from Kerala, cooks for people from almost 15 countries on board

That’s Babu Pillai from Kerala. He is, as most sailors say, the second most important man on board after the captain. Nobody messes with the chef, is the motto in the Galley. The lunch looks divine and diverse. Garlic bread, roasted chicken, fish, rajma, spinach and fruits in the end.

There are people from almost 15 countries on board – German, American, Italian, Russian, Irish, English, Swedish, Dutch, Australian, Mexican, Indian… cooking to everyone’s taste is not easy. But our man from Kerala has been performing this remarkable feat even at 79 degrees North near the Petermann Glacier. He has to choose carefully – what to cook and when. Eyes eat first – so not only should the food be tasty, it also needs to look good.

”Food goes a long way in lifting spirits when people are down. At times when the ship pitches and rolls a lot and people feel sea sick, they do not feel like eating. But if the aroma is good and the food is tasty, they are drawn towards the food. And it lifts their spirits”, says the 51-year-old, father of two. The kitchen is nice and warm. No open flame on board. A number of hot plates to cook on. There is also another corner where you can deep fry food, a large oven. I have tasted the lovely cake Babu bakes.

Faye Lewis, 29-year-old is from Bandra in Mumbai and works as a deckhand

Faye Lewis, 29-year-old is from Bandra in Mumbai and works as a deckhand

But Babu is not the only Indian connection. There is also Faye Lewis. The 29-year-old Bandra girl working as a deckhand. Unique! I have never seen women sailors on board ships but there are three here. Sarah Watson is the Bosun (team leader of deck hands) from England, Faye Lewis from India and Yohena from Mexico. Penny, an engineer is from Canada.

Faye drove an inflatable boat to Tasiilaq village on the east coast of Greenland to pick us up. She handles the boat efficiently guiding her through icy waters. Her tasks on board the Arctic Sunrise include maintenance work on board — paint what ever is static, grease what moves — first rule of sailing. That is to prevent sea water from corroding metal. Lifting anchor, wear the fireman’s outfit and be ready every time the helicopter comes in to land. And that’s a lot of work.

Faye Lewis has a Bachelor’s Degree in History and Sociology from the prestigious St. Xavier’s College and has been working as a deckhand on board Greenpeace ships since 2003. “My work on board is to maintain record of the ship’s hull, decks and superstructure. Plus mooring, cargo handling and driving the inflatable. I also have watched duties on the Bridge,” she told me. Is she uncomfortable – working as a deckhand? ”Not at all. Not on board Greenpeace ships. They respect women and we know our work,” says the ‘hardy sailor’. She has moonlighted as a DJ in Mumbai and often has the sailors rocking to her beat.

The Arctic Sunrise prepares to leave 'the ice bridge' in the Robeson channel

The Arctic Sunrise prepares to leave 'the ice bridge' in the Robeson channel

Work for Faye begins early. Lifting anchor at the crack of dawn. Then it is her task to keep every thing ship shape and also assist in scientific work. Along with Sarah and Yohena, Faye lowers the inflatable boat in the icy waters and then drives the scientists negotiating menacing icebergs. The two Indians are a part of the core team of 28 on board and are fascinated by their Arctic journey. The two go out of their way to make my stay on board the Arctic Sunrise comfortable. Masaala Dosa and Tandoori Chicken are the two new national dishes on board the Sunrise. Bon Appetit.

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5 Comments For This Post

  1. kamalesh Says:

    I didn’t see a piece of info on disasters, but just what pillai is cooking and the Indians on board. May I know what you guys are upto?

  2. GOPI DUTT Says:

    Hello Friends, 05/12/2009
    Jai Hind

    Our organization YFF has undertaken a project: Pushpanjali Prawaha ‘The flow of devotional flowers’ the new method for disposal of flowers and other puja waste in the year 2010 in Delhi. We have devised a special “PATRA” which will be placed in public places for the immediate disposal of these flowers. These will subsequently be disposed by our volunteers at an appropriate place. This will help tremendously in the reduction of pollution in The Yamuna river.

    To clean as much as possible of the poly bags and flowers from repeating error of putting flowers and poly bags again unto the river. We are also organizing Door to Door campaigning to educate uniform people in addition to touching almost 2 lace school children to help in our endeavor.

    We have devised a 3 Point Programme to help clean YAMUNA RIVER in DELHI.

    A) To stop people from throwing the Ceremonial flowers / Poly bags etc in YAMUNA River.
    B) All things being currently thrown in YAMUNA to be collected & a recycling process to be initiated.
    C) To organize children currently engaged in coin collecting & rag picking and give them employment & education.

    Our organization has devised a plan under which each councilor (Parshad) will be requested to install two “ PUSHPANJALI PRAWAHA PATRA” at common venues which would facilitate the disposal of the flowers & Prayer Samagri etc.

    The gap of the Prawaha from where the flowers will be inserted is at an angle of 23 degrees, like a letter box which will allow only flexible items inside.

    Since Delhi is preparing for 2010 Commonwealth Games, we also want to achieve the aforesaid goal in a very short time i.e. in Seven months. If help to make Yamuna river pollution free of flowers and poly bags is granted, we shall leave no stone unturned to complete the work within the stipulated time to the satisfaction of all concerned. We hope that you will make your contribution for this noble cause.

    We would be highly obliged if you could kindly help us in organizing this and give us a meeting time where we could explain our Programme in detail.

    Please Help Me Sir
    With kind regards,
    Yours
    GOPI DUTT

    Our NGO – Youth Fraternity Foundation aims to serve the nation in various ways. You must be aware of the pollution being caused due to the disposal of used flowers and other worship materials in our Holy River Yamuna , and carried by all the rivers of India. Our organization, YFF, has undertaken a project to clean the rivers of INDIA starting with The YAMUNA,which will be starting from Delhi .

    THE ORGANIZATION HAS PREPARED ITS OWN “ TASK-FORCE ” ENGAGING HUNDREDS OF YOUTH WHO HAVE VOLUNTEERED TO WORK IN DIFFERENT AREAS OF THE CITY ON EVERY ALTERNATIVE DAY AND MAKE PEOPLE AWARE OF THE ADVERSE EFFECTS OF PLASTIC BAGS ON THE ENVIRONMENT AND ALSO TO COLLECT FLOWERS AND OTHER ARTICLES LEFT AFTER POOJA AND OR THROWN INTO THE YAMUNA.

    yff.india@gmail.com
    yffindia.blogspot.com

  3. Sumukh Says:

    @kamalesh You are right about the titles — they don’t match — but, I don’t it’s the author’s fault. The text starting from the subtitle “Read Gaurav Savant’s blog..” is from the blog post here: http://headlinestoday.intoday.in/index.php?option=com_myblog&show=Arctic-Sunrise-The-Indian-Connection.html
    where the title indicates that he’s speaking about the Indian connection on board The Arctic Sunrise. Given that, I don’t think the content is irrelevant.

  4. gangireddy Says:

    Our ngo rrds is working nrm and community development and climatechange awareness at grastoot level.we need support and partnership microlevel adoptation andfoodsecurityand impact of climatechange .

  5. Abhishek chourasia Says:

    hi,
    whenever i read greenpeace articles or website contents,i always see,only issues.I mean to say,something happened there,someone doing wrong,lets stop that,join rally against environment degradation,bla bla bla.I appreciate what you are doing ,but along with these issues you must come up with some constructive ideas,movements that help us to embrace green technologies and methods.A blog must be created to teach different ways of conservation of our environment.Like how to conserve water,very cheap technology to clean waste water,how to make biogas in order to get gas,electricity and biofertilizer,any products available to reduce pollution,different green technology based company,their address,how to contact i case some decide to go for it,there cost of implementation etc.You must introduce some blog which teaches indigeneous technologies to make solar panel,wind mill,biogas plant,water recycling plan.I hope you understand what i mean to say.

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